Thursday, December 11, 2025

1) Blood, silence and history: questioning Indonesia’s 1965 narrative



2) Security in Intan Jaya has improved, TNI says  

3) Activists urge Vanuatu government to take 'decisive stance' on West Papua

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Duncan Graham
 
1) Blood, silence and history: questioning Indonesia’s 1965 narrative
 December 11, 2025 

As Indonesia prepares to release a new official national history, an Australian historian’s account of the 1965–66 mass killings threatens to reopen a long-suppressed debate about power, violence, and memory.

Indonesia’s reputation for tolerance is about to be tested by an Australian academic. Queensland historian Greg Poulgrain says he isn’t seeking fame or notoriety, just “telling the truth”, but fears his name will be trashed and research shredded. That’s if the Indonesian government responds furiously to a foreigner challenging the official account of frenzied killings as “one of the darkest turning points in Indonesia’s modern history.”

The Indonesian government-approved version of the past six decades has a surprise Moscow-engineered Communist plot to take over the Republic. This was thwarted by the military and courageous General Soeharto, who was then rewarded with the presidency, a position he held for 32 years.

The US Central Intelligence Agency claimed: “The (1965-66 anti-Communist) massacres in Indonesia rank as one of the worst mass murders of the 20th century.”

In 1966, Australian PM Harold Holt callously quipped: “With 500,000 to one million Communist sympathisers knocked off, I think it’s safe to say a reorientation has taken place.”

This month Jakarta plans to launch a new official history of the world’s fourth largest nation by population (285 million) with 88 per cent Sunni Muslims.

US and UK-educated former journalist Fadli Zon is Indonesia’s Minister for Culture. He’s ordered the writing of his nation’s history in ten volumes by more than a hundred academics pounding laptops. The section dealing with the 1965 crisis should be on the streets before 2025 departs.

Also to be released this month by Kompas, the nation’s premier publisher, is Poulgrain’s Blood and Silence – the Hidden Tragedy 1965.

His account has the plot known ahead of time by Soeharto, who launched the genocide backed by Washington. He’s just been awarded National Hero status by his former son-in-law, current President Prabowo Subianto.

Nations tack together myths about themselves that become so embedded they morph into truths and resist scrutiny.

Ours is that we’re tough Ozzies, big on mateship and giving all a go, sturdy upholders of the Anzac spirit, larrikins who value independence.

Indonesia’s pride is a nation of friendly folk, humble and helpful, accepting those who follow different gods, values and opinions.

That’s the opposite of the ghastly reality that still stains memories and stirs fears of a repeat in the land next door, once red with the blood of executions. This writer has been shown bunkers on riverbanks, allegedly mass graves from the 60s, undisturbed lest they release vengeful ghosts.

The excuse for the slaughter is that the wee folk were impetuously aroused to slitting neighbours’ and relatives’ throats because the godless Communists were about to overthrow the government and ban Islam. They didn’t need encouragement.

Poulgrain’s account doesn’t follow that script. He has US capitalists and right-wing politicians in cahoots with Muslim big business, determined to rip out the land rights movement rooted in Marxism, not through legislation and debate but violence.

During his 20-year reign, founding President Soekarno had grown close to the Partai Komunis Indonesia and away from the West and foreign corporations. His home-grown ideology was Nasakom, a contrived blend of nationalism, Islam and Communism. No reference to the military.

Nasakom remained illusory,” writes Poulgrain. “Soekarno’s political opponents took every opportunity to label him as a Communist, though (President) John Kennedy knew this was untrue.

“This worried the PKI’s fierce rivals, the Indonesian Army, whose power waned as the PKI grew.”

The story of Asia’s largest genocide is one that few Australians know and many Indonesians don’t want told. On the last day of September 1965, Indonesians woke to news that six generals had been seized from their homes by soldiers, shot, and their bodies dumped in a well at an air force base after being castrated and their eyes gouged by naked dancing women.

This was an embellishment to pique outrage – autopsies found no traces of torture and mutilation. Nor were there any nudies.

The killers were alleged to be Communists, and the mastermind was supposed to be Moscow. Russia and China were rivals seeking the support of the Partai Komunis Indonesia, then the world’s largest Communist party outside the Sino-Soviet Bloc.

That afternoon, the public was reassured by radio that the government of the first President Soekarno was intact, though the military was in charge through a ‘Revolutionary Council’.

This was led by General Soeharto, who later became the second president and held his job for 32 years. During this time, he and his family allegedly amassed US $35 billion of public money through widespread corruption.

In 1965, he ordered the nation cleansed of the ungodly PKI, so the military broke out its armouries for the killing squads. Modern weapons weren’t always necessary, as scythes and other farm tools were used to murder villagers the Army had labelled Reds. They helpfully distributed lists of those doomed to die.

Poulgrain quotes a distressed Soekarno saying: “Those people instigating the anti-PKI massacres, namely, the Army and the CIA, ought to be brought to trial.” That didn’t happen. Soekarno’s power was waning, and Soeharto’s narrative of a spontaneous and unstoppable grass-roots uprising prevailed.

Poulgrain’s research has Soeharto well prepared ahead of the coup. “At no time during his two decades in the military (prior to 1965) did Soeharto acquire a reputation of being anti-PKI … (he was) more concerned with business than politics.”

Poulgrain claims the unarmed Communists allegedly threatening the State were in reality “landless rice-farmers (petani) whose very existence depended on getting some land to grow rice. They comprised the bulk of PKI membership … supporting legal land reform in the hope of securing a small patch to grow their own food.

“On the other side were Muslim landlords for whom land reform was seen as a threat to their livelihood, wealth and status, their very existence.

“Most petani had no land at all … 60 to 70 per cent were pursuing subsistence-based agriculture.”

Sixty years on, land reform and inequality remain weeping wounds. In the 2024 presidential election campaign, The Jakarta Post commented: “Economic inequality, notably in income and wealth ownership, should have been discussed vigorously because of its connection to economic instability and political unrest.

“(There’s a) correlation between economic inequality and slow economic income disparity; last year was the worst in the last five years … remaining among the highest in Asia.”

If this gulf isn’t bridged, sociologists fear another volcano of violence could erupt.

G30S remains a compulsory annual national holiday with all flags at half-mast, including those on residents’ gates.

There are sickening dioramas in a special Jakarta museum celebrating the horrors, influencing school kids on compulsory visits. There’s a huge statue of the six murdered generals looking formidable. Doubts voiced by outsiders get ridiculed with the easy slur that critics are Fellow Travellers.

Poulgrain’s 122-page book is based on years of research and interviews held with key participants in Indonesia and overseas for his PhD in the last century, when many witnesses were alive. He writes:

“Australia’s biggest contribution to the Army’s anti-communist campaign was broadcasting and supporting Indonesian Army propaganda.

“The Army seized control of virtually all of Indonesia’s media after the attempted coup. It began an aggressive and pervasive anti-PKI campaign, spreading dangerous disinformation to discredit and dehumanise the Communists.  The party and its principles are still banned.

“Radio Australia fed the Indonesian population an Indonesian Army-approved political narrative that Ambassador Mick Shann said ‘should [be thumped] into Indonesians’ as much as possible.”

Those words are the advice of Australia’s then leading diplomat in Jakarta.

The first edition of Blood and Silence will be in English. Whether Kompas will be forced to abandon its promise to publish in Indonesian will be a test of the nation’s tolerance for dissenting views, a pillar of democracy.

The views expressed in this article may or may not reflect those of Pearls and Irritations.

Duncan Graham

Duncan Graham has been a journalist for more than 40 years in print, radio and TV. He is the author of People 

Next Door (UWA Press). He is now writing for the English language media in Indonesia from within Indonesia.

 Duncan Graham has an MPhil degree, a Walkley Award, two Human Rights Commission awards and other prizes

 for his radio, TV and print journalism in Australia. He lives in East Java.


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2) Security in Intan Jaya has improved, TNI says  

TNI’s role in Papua is not limited to security but also covers social communication, support fo
r public service and contribution to regional development acceleration, a flag officer said.

News Desk (The Jakarta Post) Jakarta Thu, December 11, 2025 



Security in Intan Jaya regency, Central Papua, has improved significantly in the past few
 months following a series of security operations against the Free Papua Organization (OPM) I
nsurgent movement, the Indonesian Military (TNI) claimed recently.

“We will continue to limit the armed group’s moving space and ensure Papua is still safe and
y, Central Papua. “The people’s safety is our highest priority in every duty implementation.” 
Lucky said that the TNI’s purview in Papua was in line with Presidential Instruction 
No. 9/2020 on Accelerating Welfare Development in Papua and West Papua. He said 
that the TNI’s role is not limited only to security but also covers social communication, 
support for public services and contribution to regional development acceleration.

The TNI, through Koops Habema, said that security operations in Hitadipa district and 
other districts in Intan Jaya were triggered by the fatal shooting of Anselmus Arfin, a man 
who was working on the Trans Intan Jaya highway in the Mamba-Hitadipa section on
 Oct. 8 in Ndugusiga village, attributed to the OPM.

It was suspected that the shooting was carried out by an OPM group led by Undius Kogoya.

 Responding to the shooting, Koops Habema entered Soanggama village on Oct. 15, which 
has been known as one of the insurgents' main bases. During the operation, Koops Habema 
operatives managed to kill 14 OPM insurgents while Undius managed to escape. In the next 
operation, military applied a blockade strategy by closing escape routes and deploying
 soldiers in various strategic villages, such as Zanepa, Engganengga, Maya, Bilai and Agapa.

The strategy was aimed at curtailing the insurgents’ movement and cut their logistics 
access and support network. The blockade caused Undius to be isolated and, was later 
reported to have died of his illnesses under blockade. Another insurgent leader, 
Yulius Wonda, was also reported to have died.

 The operations complemented other enforcements against other OPM leaders, such 
as Lamek Taplo and Jack Milian Kemong, who were included in the operation’s target list. 
With the targeted killing of some of their leaders, the armed insurgents’ command structure 
in Intan Jaya regency is reportedly to have weakened significantly. With diminishing activities 
of armed insurgent groups, the people’s social and economic activities have slowly recovered.
 In several areas, electricity supplies from state-owned electricity firm PT PLN are available 
for up to 12 hours per day. The strategic Mamba-Hitadipa road has now been paved with 
asphalt for about 6 kilometers. 

Previously, progress was hindered by security disturbances. Increased security is also 
reflected in public’s support for the presence of security apparatus. Residents in
 Soanggama village, Hitadipa district, officially handed over land to the TNI for building 
a security post. Soanggama village chief Marinus Lawiya and Hitadipa district chief Soleman
 Bilambani represented the residents in handing over the land through a customary 
procession, which served as a symbol of the people’s acceptance of TNI presence 
in the area. (nvn)


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3) Activists urge Vanuatu government to take 'decisive stance' on West Papua
10:33 am on 11 December 2025 

West Papuan activists in Vanuatu are demanding that the Vanuatu government "take a stronger and more 
decisive stance" in support of the region's independence from Indonesia, the Vanuatu Daily Postreports.
The newspaper reported West Papuan "freedom fighters and advocates" have formally submitted a petition
 to the government, expressing concern Vanuatu is lacking in its support to the long-standing struggle of 
the indigenous Melanesian people of West Papua.
Read more:
  • Indonesia urges respect for its sovereignty after Australia-PNG defence treaty
  • West Papua holds an important place on Pacific countries' agenda says Mapou
  • Pro-independence advocates urge Melanesian Spearhead Group to elevate ULMWP membership
  • "The petition raises concern among chiefs, described as custodians of the land and traditional governance systems, 
    who fear that Vanuatu's support for West Papua is declining while diplomatic relations with Indonesia continue 
    to strengthen," the report stated.
    According to the newspaper, the petition outlines several actions the Vanuatu government should undertake,
     including accrediting the United Liberation Movement for West Papua (ULMWP) as part of Vanuatu's 
    delegation to international forums.
    The petitioners also want the Vanuatu government to revisit the 2010 motion declaring Vanuatu's foreign 
    policy support for West Papua's independence, to issue recognition of the West Papua provisional government,
     to advocate for West Papua's elevated Melanesian Spearhead Group membership status, to seek international 
    support for United Nations access to West Papua, to cancel bilateral agreements with Indonesia, and to
     sponsor the West Papua case before the International Court of Justice.
    They want a written response to their demands, stating "if no response is received before the Melanesian 
    Arts Festival in Fiji in 2026, the petitioners will boycott Vanuatu's participation".
    West Papua, located in the western part of the island of New Guinea, has been under Indonesia's 
    administration since 1963.
    Earlier this year, ULMWP leader Benny Wenda claimed Indonesian "military escalation" in the region 
    was forcing the indigineous Papuans to flee their ancestral lands.
    While the Indonesian military said its presence is "not to intimidate the people" but to protect them from 
    violence, human rights groups, such as Human Rights Watch, say Indonesian forces are causing mass
     displacement and violence against indigenous Papuans.
    -Vanuatu Daily Post/RNZ Pacific
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    Wednesday, December 10, 2025

    1) The West Papua National Committee (KNPB) in Sentani held a peaceful demonstration at the Jayapura Regent's Office to commemorate World Human Rights Day.

    1) The West Papua National Committee (KNPB) in Sentani held a peaceful demonstration at the Jayapura Regent's Office to commemorate World Human Rights Day.
    2) Indonesia plans 100,000 ha land clearing for Papua rice program  
    3) Indonesia start construction of 6 police-run MBG kitchens in Papua  
    4) West Papuan advocates petition gov't for stronger support 

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    A google translate
    Original Bahasa link

    1) The West Papua National Committee (KNPB) in Sentani held a peaceful demonstration at the Jayapura Regent's Office to commemorate World Human Rights Day.
    December 10, 2025 in Politics, Law, and Security. Reading Time: 1 min read
    0
    Author: Silpester Kasipka - Editor: Arjuna Pademme


    The peaceful demonstration by the KNPB to commemorate World Human Rights Day in Sentani, Jayapura Regency, Papua on Wednesday (10/12/2025).-Jubi/Silpester Kasipka



    Sentani, Jubi—The West Papua National Committee (KNPB) in Sentani, Jayapura Regency, Papua, held a peaceful demonstration at the Jayapura Regent's Office in Gunung Merah, Sentani, to commemorate World Human Rights Day, Wednesday (12/10/2025).

    The demonstration began at around 8:00 a.m. Papua Time and lasted until noon. It was led by Agus Kossay, the General Chairperson of the Central Papua KNPB, as the person in charge of the demonstration, with Balma Kalaka as the field coordinator and Emar Pahabol as the deputy coordinator.

    Hundreds of protesters gathered at several gathering points, including Kampung Sereh, Pos 7, Pasar Lama Sentani, and several others. They marched to the Jayapura Regent's office on foot, carrying Morning Star flags and KNPB paraphernalia bearing signs demanding self-determination, resolving human rights violations in Papua from 1996 to the present, and urging the Indonesian government to address these cases.

    The demonstration was guarded by Jayapura Police officers, led by Jayapura Police Chief, AKBP Umar Nasatekay. Police secured the route and inspected the group's belongings upon their arrival at the Gunung Merah area before they were allowed to enter the regent's office grounds.

    At the Jayapura Regent's Office, the protesters delivered speeches and expressed their aspirations regarding the resolution of alleged human rights violations in Papua.

    They awaited the opportunity to meet with Jayapura Regent Yunus Wonda, Deputy Regent Haris Richard Yocku, and the chairman of the Jayapura Regional People's Representative Council (DPRK) to present their demands in person.

    As of 1:00 PM WIT, the protesters remained at the location and continued to give speeches. The situation remained peaceful, and security forces continued to monitor the situation. (*)

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    2) Indonesia plans 100,000 ha land clearing for Papua rice program  
    December 10, 2025 16:43 GMT+700
    Jayapura, Papua (ANTARA) - The Indonesian government aims to clear 100,000 hectares of land to support rice cultivation in Papua, Agriculture Minister Amran Sulaiman said.

    During a visit to the provincial capital Jayapura on Wednesday, he said his ministry is ready to help the Papua administration achieve its food self-sufficiency goals.

    He said the ministry will begin by clearing 20,000 hectares and will soon supply equipment for paddy field preparation to support farmers starting the planting process.

    Papua Governor Mathius Fakhiri welcomed the plan, saying that alongside the four districts currently planting rice, two additional districts will also be developed for cultivation.

    He said Papua fully supports the rice-paddy development program and hopes for strong community participation, as the results are expected to improve local welfare.

    "We should support agricultural development for our farmers to meet their own needs," Sulaiman added.

    He also said that the central government has allocated an initial Rp3 trillion, or about US$180 million, to strengthen food production programs, including those in Papua.

    Sulaiman reiterated that Indonesia has halted rice imports as national reserves have reached 3.7 million tons, the highest since state-owned logistics firm Bulog was established in 1967.

    "Usually, the maximum rice reserve is only around 2 million tons, but now it has increased so that rice demand is met," he said.

    Related news: Bulog distributes 65 percent of rice aid to Papua
    Related news: West Papua allocates 14 tons of rice for 2024 food security reserve


    Translator: Evarukdijati, Resinta Sulistiyandari
    Editor: Anton Santoso



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    3) Indonesia start construction of 6 police-run MBG kitchens in Papua  
    December 9, 2025 17:29 GMT+700

    Jakarta (ANTARA) - The Indonesian National Police (Polri) commenced the construction of six additional nutrition fulfillment service units (SPPGs) serving as kitchens under the Free Nutritious Meals (MBG) in the Papua region on Tuesday.

    Polri Deputy Chief Commissioner General Dedi Prasetyo attended the groundbreaking of the kitchens located in the Keerom and Biak Numfor Districts of Papua Province and in the Merauke District of South Papua Province, according to a statement received in Jakarta.

    The ceremony marked the start of the construction of the Keerom Police SPPG, targeting 1,500 recipients; the Biak Numfor Police SPPG, serving 1,000 beneficiaries; and four Merauke Police kitchens expected to reach nearly eight thousand residents.

    Prasetyo said the development of MBG kitchens in Papua demonstrates the police's commitment to expanding its services and supporting government efforts to improve people's nutritional intake, particularly in remote and difficult-to-access regions.

    “More than mere buildings, these SPPGs constitute Polri's huge investment in efforts to boost its services in the Papua region,” he stated, stressing that the kitchens are intended to benefit the public.

    He also affirmed that Polri will continue expanding its services in eastern Indonesia through ongoing SPPG construction and digitalization initiatives.

    “Papua remains a priority region. Through the SPPGs and ongoing projects, we aim to provide citizens with proper, modern, and accessible services,” Prasetyo said.

    During the ceremony, the three-star general also urged Chair of the Polri MBG Task Force Inspector Gen. Nurwono Danang to prioritize service in remote and underdeveloped areas and conduct direct reviews of SPPG construction work to ensure smooth progress.

    The Polri currently operate two SPPGs in the Papua region, managed by the Papua Regional Police and the Jayapura City Police, which serve 1,880 and 2,783 people, respectively, per day.

    Nationally, the police aim to establish 1,500 MBG kitchens, with 1,099 already in operational, preparatory, or construction stages.

    As of December, the MBG program has served roughly 49 million schoolchildren, breastfeeding mothers, pregnant women, and toddlers nationwide since January 6. The number is expected to hit 82.9 million by March 2026.

    Related news: Indonesia mobilizes family planning workers to expand MBG program

    Related news: RI Govt to expand free meal program for disabled citizens

    Related news: Prabowo counters free meal critics, cites 49 million served daily



    Translator: Nadia P, Tegar Nurfitra
    Editor: Azis Kurmala


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    4) West Papuan advocates petition gov't for stronger support 
    By Ezra Toara 4 hrs ago

    West Papuan freedom fighters and advocates in Vanuatu have formally submitted a petition calling on the Government to take a stronger and more decisive stance on the issue of West Papuan self-determination.

    The petition expresses concern that the Vanuatu Government is not doing enough to support the long-standing struggle of the people of West Papua.


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    Saturday, December 6, 2025

    West Papua and Its Quest for Freedom

    The Santa Barbara Independent

     West Papua and Its Quest for Freedom  

    The People of the Remote Region Continue to Fight Indonesian Occupiers
    By Craig Harris  
    Sat Dec 06, 2025 | 3:56pm

    Deep in the jungle of West Papua, Tinus pulls back firmly on his bow string and with clockwork precision takes aim at a bird perched high in the canopy. As he releases the bamboo arrow takes flight guiding swiftly through the air. Diligently, Tinus wraps the bird in banana leaves, for the journey back to his village is long.

    His life that of a nomadic hunter-gatherer, is all he has ever known. For thousands of years his people have remained cut off from the outside world. Their reality fixed upon an area of forest unmapped and forgotten. However, as the dark clouds loom overhead and the thunder shakes the ground, it is carrying a message. And Tinus knows all too well, as he has heard from neighboring tribes of unwanted visitors promising knives and tools and with it change.

    For 37 years I have been exploring this region, trekking through the highlands and learning about a people and land that have grabbed my heart. I have built lifelong friendships with many of the indigenous people. It is these people and their determination for survival that I am so passionately focused on.

    Papua is a Malay word for “frizzy haired people,” a place where some 2 million Melanesian indigenous live among an area of rain forest, swamps, and cloud-snagged mountains, reaching to heights of 16,000 feet, the highest elevation between the Himalayas and the Andes.

    In the 1960s Indonesia laid claim to West Papua. Despite efforts to control the West Papuan people, it has failed on all aspects of doing so. Indonesia uniliterally annexed the former Dutch colony in 1969 with the United Nations referendum “Act of Free Choice.” What the Papuans call the “Act of No Choice.”

    The Papuans quickly formed the Organisi Papua Merdeka, or Organization Free Papua, (OPM). It is made up of Papuan freedom fighters armed with bows arrows and spears as well as a few guns, obsolete booty of the Dutch. They have proven to be a thorn for the Indonesian military. The number of freedom fighters varies from a few hundred to thousands, depending on who you speak to. However, one thing is for certain their cause burns deeply in most all Papuans.

    It’s obvious West Papua opposition to Indonesia will continue because the central government’s presence runs counter to the indigenous values. First, the local people do not feel they belong in Indonesia, experiencing more affinity with the people in the east Papua New Guinea (PNG) and the rest of Melanesia than the people in Indonesia proper. Second, policies of coercing the indigenous peoples into being Indonesian have fueled anti Indonesian feelings in the region. Third, respect for the land is very important to West Papuans and this value is being assaulted by the government’s transmigration and economic policies.

    Indonesia sees West Papua as elbowroom. With so many people eking out an area of space on the islands of Java, Suliweisi, and Sumarta the central government brainstormed Operation Transmigration. Implemented in the 1970s the government has already moved at least 300,000 settlers to transmigration camps in West Papua. However, the open invitation has put a strain on the relations of the Papuans and the new arrivals, where more often than not, the native people are found to stand in the way.

    With its blistering economy and the world’s fourth largest population, Indonesia can’t afford to lose West Papua. It sees the 26th province as a huge depot of natural resources. Vast amounts of timber, the largest gold mine in the world, and an abundance of copper and huge deposits of oil found in the lowlands.

    For years I worked as a tour operator. Guiding small groups of people into this remote area for a glimpse into this fascinating culture. That was back in the late ’90s. Now, present day tourism is at an all time low. The area has become volatile with many tour agencies pulling back.

    Between 200,000 and 300,000 Papuans have been killed since Indonesia’s occupation began. A report by Yale law school suggests that the intent of Indonesia’s actions fall within the legal definition of genocide.

    In 2022 the U.N. condemned what it described as “shocking abuses” by the Indonesian military, including the killing of children, disappearances, torture, and large scale forced displacement where villagers flee deep into the jungle for safety. Despite global outcry Indonesia has shown little willingness to acknowledge the scale of atrocities, leaving Papuans with little hope other than continued resistance.

    Despite parts of West Papua being unknown and unmapped the modern world is arriving, especially those multi-national corporations seeking wealth. The government has marked off great chunks of Papua for resource development. The French are looking for uranium, the Australians for gold, the British and Americans are searching for natural gas and oil, and the Japanese are logging the mangrove swamps. Geologists call Papua “elephant country,” a term for terrain with extra rich deposits. It’s estimated 41 million hectares of forested area to be state forests. This would take away indigenous peoples power to manage and make decisions about the territories they traditionally occupy and depend on.

    Many Papuans now have access to mobile phones and the internet. Many are using this technology to coordinate their struggle for freedom and communicate with the rest of the world.

    Recent developments in West Papua include the use of drones especially in the densely forested central highlands. Hundreds of villagers have been killed and injured during these military drone operations. Skirmishes in the region between the Indonesian military and the freedom fighters seem to take place on a daily basis.

    With world events being what they are, wars, famine, civil unrest, and corrupt governments, most countries have little desire to get involved in West Papua and its quest for freedom. However this only seems to strengthen the people of this remote region as they continue to fight for a cause that ultimately depends on their survival.

    “Cepat-cepat” (quickly-quickly), the words echo through the thick air. “We must finish climbing before nightfall.” 

    My good friend and porter Nadius peers into my eyes. The mountain is filled with spirits and it’s not safe to climb in the dark. 

    With every breath I feel my body struggle. Cautiously we weave and slither across a section of trail that seems to slow our progress to a crawl. Four of us had journeyed deep into the jungle of the eastern highlands of West Papua. Three years had passed since my last trip and I was back to visit one of the 250 indigenous tribes, the Yali or Yalimo (“people of the east”). The territory they inhabit is so rugged few outsiders have penetrated the isolated jungle to witness their way of life. 

    My body explodes with excitement. I was back in Papua.

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