EACH morning, Karna begins his working day with a trip to one of Indonesia's "wet" markets to procure a supply of beef.
The 52-year-old bakso seller then wheels his wooden cart, remade three times since 1950, to the same spot on the Indonesian capital Jakarta's busy streets it has occupied for more than half a century.
From there he plies a brisk trade, dishing out four bakso balls - flavoured mixtures of beef and tapioca - and two pieces of tofu with every steaming bowl of broth and noodles sold, until his supply is gone.
Indonesia has 3.5 million bakso ball sellers. Few families regularly eat beef at home, and about 70 per cent of all beef consumed in the country is estimated to be through bakso carts such as Karna's.
However, in recent months, as the price of beef has almost doubled in the wake of live cattle import restrictions, Karna's morning ritual has become harder.
"The price is high and it's hard to find the meat in the market," he says. "We have to reduce the amount of meat we put in every ball, and make the balls smaller.
"It also means I give less money to my wife, so we eat less meat."
Indonesia has stated ambitions to increase beef consumption tenfold, from its present average of below 2kg per person annually to about 20kg. Australians, by comparison, annually consume an average of 43kg each.
Trade restrictions imposed in the name of self-sufficiency, and severely tightened following a snap five-week live-exports ban by Australia in mid-2011, have benefited small Indonesian farmers, say observers, but have made life hard for many others.
Vast feedlots once teeming with Australian cattle stand almost empty; at least one major importer has taken the first steps towards moving to China. Restaurateurs and hoteliers complain of a shortage of affordable beef. Meanwhile, north Australian cattle producers languish amid declining property values, high debt and predictions of a tough year ahead.
It is a situation the Northern Territory's Chief Minister, Terry Mills, hopes to change by reviving the sort of diplomatic ties between the Top End and Indonesia under which the cattle industry flourished during the 1990s.
"We have an obligation, by virtue of our location and our history, to provide national leadership on engagement with Indonesia," Mills said on a visit there in December. "Darwin is closer to Jakarta than Canberra is, in more ways than distance."
More than two decades ago, before the then Labor prime minister Paul Keating declared that "no country is more important to Australia than Indonesia", the Territory signed the first of several memorandums of understanding with Indonesia under which trade and bilateral relations grew at a time when Jakarta's ties with Canberra were comparatively sour.
By rejuvenating those ties, which have lapsed over the past decade or so, Mills hopes to establish Darwin as the gateway and focus of Australia-Indonesia relations - putting into practice the vision echoed in Julia Gillard's recent Australia in the Asian Century white paper.
In doing so, he and his team argue they can kick off a wave of regional development and, potentially, achieve what the federal government has so far failed to do by getting live cattle trade restrictions eased.
"Australia should be looking north," Mills says. "The NT is leading the nation." He has already appointed Wahyu Dewanto, former second-in-command at Indonesia's Hanura party, as the Territory's Indonesia representative, and will open an office in Jakarta.
The Territory and Indonesia, separated at their closest point by just a few hundred kilometres of ocean, have long found themselves natural trading partners. Centuries ago Macassan sailors frequented the north Australian coast; there they met local Aborigines and left their residue in the Yolngu language.
Not long after European settlement, Darwin became the hub for communications between Australia and the rest of the English-speaking world after the 1870s Overland Telegraph connected it via undersea cable to Java. Messages could reach Europe in days, rather than taking months by sea.
With self-government beginning in 1978, the Territory once again looked north for development. Its first chief minister, Paul Everingham, was "clear that the NT didn't have very much that the south wanted, but that we were sitting below a very large market", according to John Killen, executive director of the Office of Asian Engagement, who has been involved with Indonesia since the 1970s.
According to Shane Stone, the Territory's first minister for Asian relations and trade, beginning in the early 90s, who went on to become chief minister: "The Indonesian government, from the president down, was very conscious of who we were, where we were, and when they thought of Australia they thought of us."
Since Australia imposed its temporary ban on live exports to Indonesia - following revelations about cruelty in its abattoirs shown in footage on ABC television's Four Corners - Indonesia has cut its import quota for Australian cattle by almost two-thirds. It has also activated a range of other rules and restrictions, contributing to a perception Australia is being punished for threatening Indonesia's food security.
"It was making animals more important than people," Mills says, "not understanding what impact the denial or the disruption of food sources has on our neighbour.
"How threatening that is, how arrogant that is, how disrespectful to do that without consultation."
In late November, Indonesia announced it would again cut its import quotas for Australian beef and cattle from the equivalent of 85,000 tonnes of beef last year to 80,000 tonnes this year. This means only 267,000 head of live cattle can be exported. Before Canberra's ban, Australia was exporting 520,000 cattle a year.
Mills, a Bahasa Indonesia speaker who moved to Darwin from Perth in 1989 because of the northern capital's growing Indonesian ties, in December made a point of travelling to Indonesia for his first overseas trip since winning office in August.
He and his Primary Industries Minister Willem Westra van Holthe and Business Minister Peter Chandler met Vice-President Boediono, Foreign Affairs Minister Marty Natalegawa and Agriculture Minister Suswono, among others.
The trip, Mills says, was about "acknowledging the strength of a relationship that existed before, and resetting that".
Indonesia has suggested it can achieve beef self-sufficiency as early as next year. But according to beef industry calculations, if just one extra bakso ball were added to every bowl sold, the beef supply chain would collapse under the weight of additional demand.
"If you can't meet the demand from adding one more bakso ball, how can you meet the aspirations target of 20 kilos per head?" says one importer, angry at government quota restrictions.
Skyrocketing prices have pushed some bakso sellers to substitute beef with cheaper pork, triggering outrage among Indonesia's majority Muslim population.
Nyoman Santiawan, vice-chairman of Rama Hotels and Resorts in Bali, warns the supply of beef is "now quite restricted".
"The price is going up for restaurants and hotels, for the hospitality industry in particular it's getting quite difficult," he says.
Strong Top End-Indonesia ties, built up by Stone and others during the early 90s, began to degrade after the Asian financial crisis hit in 1997. Stone's successor Dennis Burke focused elsewhere, and after the Country Liberals lost power to Labor in 2001, relations were further affected by the 2002 and 2005 Bali bombings.
Successive Labor governments looked increasingly towards Japan and China, including by securing a $34 billion gas development for Darwin spearheaded by Japanese company INPEX.
Mills argues if the Top End ties had been maintained, the live cattle saga would never have plumbed the depths it has. The way back, he thinks, is by engaging Indonesia's eastern provinces.
"If we engage with the eastern provinces, show a soft face to the eastern provinces, then the hard face of Jakarta will soften," he predicts. "The problem (now) is they think we're here to exploit them."
Killen sees opportunities not just in commodities exports but in education and construction services, and services to the oil and gas industry. "If we help them create a need, then we can sell into that market," he says. "The economic development of the Territory is tied to the economic development of the region."
In 2010-11, Indonesia was the Territory's fifth-largest export market - after Japan, China, Oman and the US - with exports totalling $200 million, mostly accounted for by trade in live animals. But exports dropped by more than 40 per cent in 2009-10, largely due to a decline in the live cattle trade.
This was down from a record high of 773,000 the previous year. It also reflects the beginnings of Indonesia's reduced quotas in pursuit of beef self-sufficiency, a goal that predates the ban imposed by Australia in 2011.
Last year's numbers are yet to be officially released, but data provided by the federal Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade shows live animals remained the Territory's third-largest export commodity in 2011-12, behind natural gas and mining products, and the largest component of its trade was with Indonesia.
Despite the renewed focus from Canberra and Darwin, it's clear that in building relations with Australia's nearest neighbour, federal and Territory governments have some way to go. In his Keith Murdoch Oration in November, Keating said policy towards Indonesia had languished, "lacking framework, judgments of magnitude and coherence".
It is a view echoed in Jakarta. Harry Chan Silalahi, a prominent academic and political figure, founder of the Centre for Strategic and International Studies in Jakarta, and the key link between the Indonesian and Australian governments during the East Timor crisis, told Mills at a dinner during his visit in December: "It is only in the last two or three years that Australia started to think that there's a neighbour in the north. Usually, you think that the enemy comes from the north. Usually, Australia's stomach is in Indonesia, but the head is in London, and we have to change that."
While in Indonesia, Mills secured agreement from Natalegawa to establish a new regional forum and extracted a promise from Indonesian airline Garuda to look at resuming air links between Darwin and the eastern provinces; they also invited a delegation from KADIN, the chamber of commerce and industry, to visit the Top End. But beef import restrictions remained unchanged.
The Top End cattle industry welcomes the new Territory government's push to revive Indonesian relations. David Warriner, president of the NT Cattlemen's Association, says it's a good strategy but warns Mills to "do the numbers" to ensure the plan is financially viable.
Observers predict no change to beef import restrictions before Indonesia's next general election in 2014. Even then, change may come slowly, predicts Bruce Warren, head of value-added beef at Santori, part of Indonesia's largest publicly listed agricultural company, Japfa Comfeed. He says the restrictions have in many ways achieved their goal.
"The (Indonesians) are growing soybeans, they are manufacturing many products that before were always imported . . . Beef is so expensive (that) the farmer with a few cows has never seen better," Warren says. "We can sit back and say there's no logic to it, but from a different point of view they've been very successful."
Santori once imported almost a quarter of all Australian cattle sent to Indonesia. But with its cattle yards around Jakarta "basically empty", the company has just struck an agreement to build China's largest feedlot, declaring Indonesian import restrictions unlikely to be lifted anytime soon.
In Jakarta, Buntoro Hasan, president and director of feedlot and beef processing company Tanjung Unggul Mandiri, which supplies wet markets such as those where Karna shops every morning, also faces a bleak outlook in the local market.
"We hope the government will give us more import quota. We are running at about 25 per cent capacity," Buntoro says.
Wandering through bare yards, Buntoro comes upon one pen of prime Australian cattle.
"Look at these, they're beautiful," he says, patting one on the rump, before returning to his car and taking Mills to inspect an empty slaughterhouse.
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